home *** CD-ROM | disk | FTP | other *** search
- TRAVEL, Page 64Take a Number To Take a Hike
-
-
- For a wilderness experience, you have to plan ahead or lose
-
-
- "White water! White water!" yelps Neil Kaminsky, an
- Albuquerque physician and veteran rafter, as he maneuvers
- through 5 ft.-tall, "haystack" waves on Idaho's roaring Salmon
- River. It may not be everyone's idea of a great vacation, but
- Kaminsky counts himself lucky to be out there risking his life.
- The U.S. Forest Service, which administers the Salmon and other
- prime Idaho rivers, grants just 1,100 permits to rafting
- parties annually. They are chosen by lottery from more than
- 11,000 applicants.
-
- For Americans, heading into the wilderness is more than a
- national rite -- it is a national right. Until recently,
- national-park visitors, for instance, simply pitched tents in
- any inviting clearing if established campsites were filled.
- These days, however, would-be travelers had better not hit the
- trail without first making a reservation. The problem: many
- natural attractions are experiencing "greenlock." Not only are
- popular parks from Acadia in Maine to Yosemite in California
- jammed with visitors, but the overcrowding is spreading to state
- parks, national forests and rivers, raising environmental
- concerns and threatening the wilderness "experience."
- Everywhere, authorities are having to ration the outdoors with
- lotteries, permits and reservations for everything from biking
- to hiking. "It's ironic," observes University of California
- historian Roderick Nash. "By making wilderness popular, we now
- have to save it from its friends."
-
- Many of the nearly 60 million visitors expected in the 50
- national parks this year will be what rangers call "windshield
- tourists," who rarely leave their cars to enjoy the sights.
- Those who hope to camp out amid the natural splendors during
- the summer high season are best advised to book well in
- advance. Since the early '80s, the National Park Service has
- sold campsites ($7-$15 a night) in 13 of the most popular parks
- through the Ticketron reservation service. So great is demand
- at Yosemite that the 200-plus daily openings, which go on sale
- eight weeks in advance, are snapped up in less than five
- minutes. Even bicyclists hoping to pedal Canyonlands National
- Park's scenic Island in the Sky trail in Utah must apply at
- least two months ahead. Most parks keep a portion of sites off
- the Ticketron computers, offering them to campers on a daily
- basis. But getting a space without a reservation can mean hours
- of waiting in line with no guarantee of success. "Don't think
- you can just bop into any park and find someplace to stay at
- the last minute," says the Park Service's Priscilla Baker. "You
- might spend the night in your car."
-
- The same advice applies to other lands and waters.
- Backpackers competing for summertime space in the famous
- shelters along the Appalachian Trail, from Maine to Georgia,
- must preregister months in advance. And it is the same for
- Arizona's Aravaipa Canyon, a stream-fed desert site with unique
- wildlife, where only 50 camping permits are granted daily.
-
- Getting on the water is also difficult. Most of the 22,000
- slots for riding the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon
- go to commercial companies. Individuals face a minimum waiting
- time of three to five years. The toughest permit: the one to
- traverse Northern Idaho's Selway River, a rafter's prize
- because it is navigable only a few weeks of the year. The odds
- of winning the pass are 33 to 1.
-
- How to find more elbowroom? Avoid weekends and famous
- attractions like Old Faithful; be willing to venture farther
- afield. The National Forest System and the Bureau of Land
- Management boast millions of acres of uncrowded and unspoiled
- territory. Veteran Tennessee hiker Jim Botts, for instance,
- shuns crowded Great Smoky Mountains National Park for the
- lesser known bogs of Joyce Kilmer Wilderness in North Carolina.
-
- Some experts foresee a small clearing in the thickets: as
- the baby boomers age, their pursuit of rugged outdoor
- activities like white-water rafting and hiking the high trails
- is likely to decline. But Park Service officials expect the
- more accessible locales to increase in popularity as boomers
- take to their BMWs and Tauruses with a vengeance, clogging the
- outback roads and sullying woodlands air. "The day is coming
- when not everybody who wants to get into the parks will be able
- to," warns Patricia Schifferle, a regional director of the
- Wilderness Society. "It will be like a sold-out rock concert."
- If that happens, future campers will be singing the blues.
-
-
- By J.D. Reed. Reported by J. Madeleine Nash/Salmon River and
- Rosanne Spector/Washington, with other bureaus.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
-